Exploring balsamic bliss
Tradition's strict standards create a special vinegar
By Natalie Haughton
Los Angeles Daily News
November 19, 2003
The Chicago Tribune
Say "vinegar," and lips pucker. But say "balsamic" and a rich, velvety,
sweet-and-sour harmonious flavor comes to mind.
Balsamic vinegars are not all created equal. In fact, what many consumers
know and refer to as balsamic vinegar in this country bears no resemblance
to the real, authentic article.
"In my experience, when people first experience true balsamic vinegar (aceto
balsamico tradizionale), they are astonished," said Mannie Berk, president
of the Rare Wine Co. in Sonoma, one of largest U.S. importers of real
balsamico. "It doesn't taste like vinegar--it is so sweet and rich that the
vinegar component is almost lost."
According to Italian law, tradizionale (traditional) or extra-vecchio
tradizionale (extra-old traditional) aceto balsamico must be produced in the
northern provinces of Modena or Reggio Emilia in the region of
Emilia-Romagna. It's created from the cooked-down juices of white Trebbiano
or other grape varieties and aged 12 to 25 years or longer (becoming thicker
and more intense with age) in different-size wooden barrels following a
centuries-old tradition.
True balsamics bear either the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena or
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia label and range in price from
$55 to $400 or more for a small bottle.
With American cooks' increased interest in and demand for balsamic vinegar
since the early 1980s, mass-produced imitations have become common on
supermarket and specialty store shelves. Prices and quality vary greatly.
(The Good Eating staff tasted 10 supermarket brands; see the results on page
3.)
"Commercial balsamic vinegar may or may not be aged or may or may not
contain artificial caramel color or flavor," note the editors of Cook's
Illustrated magazine in "The Best Recipe Italian Classics." Some are nothing
more than caramel-colored red wine vinegar. And some are produced in the
U.S., not Italy.
Although it's recommended that consumers check labels--and avoid any with
artificial ingredients--often the contents won't be disclosed on the label
because Italian law dictates that balsamic vinegar of Modena is itself
considered an ingredient and product, so no further description is
necessary, point out the Cook's Illustrated editors. The U.S. Food and Drug
Administration requires only that the label identify whether or not the
product contains sulfites.
Italians use traditional aged balsamic sparingly as a condiment or seasoning
to finish a dish.
A few drops might be sprinkled over grilled or roasted meats, strawberries
or vanilla gelato or drizzled over chunks of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano.
"Italians don't cook with it," said Meesha Halm, author of "The Balsamic
Vinegar Cookbook." But Halm does cook with less-expensive, good-quality
commercial balsamics. "I am treating balsamic as a cooking liquid [like
vinegar] that has both sweetness and sourness. It offers an earthy depth, a
sweetness, piquancy and added zing to dishes that you wouldn't get from
regular vinegar or regular brown sauce."
"Some chefs recommend creating a substitute for traditional balsamic vinegar
by reducing Aceto Balsamico di Modena over high heat until quite thick and
sometimes adding brown sugar," writes Pamela Sheldon Johns, author of
"Balsamico! A Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook." "However, it must be good quality
and contain little or no wine vinegar."
Ari Weinzweig, author of "Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating" (Houghton
Mifflin,$19.95), suggests in his book to look for products from Italy
labeled condimento or salsa (sauce), products which he describes as
"full-flavored with much of the mellow smoothness and sweet-sour character
that make balsamic such a hit."
The best of them use 100 percent grape must, he writes. Producers generally
keep the price down by cutting corners in the production, instead of with
the ingredients.
Tommaso Barletta, chef/owner of Tuscany Restaurant in Westlake Village,
Calif., uses vin cotto (cooked wine) as an alternative to inexpensive
balsamic vinegar: "It's reminiscent of good aged balsamic."
To make it, cook down a bottle of syrah, zinfandel or amarone wine with some
roasted fresh mission figs (for sweetness) and a whole clove in a heavy
saucepan over low heat until the mixture is reduced by half and reaches a
syrupy consistency; this will take about an hour.
After cooling and straining (save and reuse the figs), Barletta drizzles it
over a salad of baby greens, roasted beet wedges, goat cheese and candied
pecans or on wedges of grilled radicchio. He also brushes it on grilled
vegetables or uses it to make a glaze (heat with a few shallots and reduce
it) for beef or game.
@ @ @ @ @
Parmesan-crusted asparagus with balsamic vinegar
1 pound thin asparagus spears, tough stems snapped off
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 ounce Parmesan cheese curls (shaved off a chunk of cheese with peeler)
Freshly ground pepper
Balsamic vinegar
Balsamic vinegar is often sprinkled over thin wedges of Parmigiano-Reggiano,
another of Emilia-Romagna's prized delicacies, or served as a dip for cooked
asparagus. This warm appetizer combines both ideas. From "The Balsamic
Vinegar Cookbook," by Meesha Halm.
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Place asparagus in a single layer on a nonstick
baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and toss well, coating asparagus
completely. Spread Parmesan curls over top half of asparagus spears.
2. Bake in the top third of the oven until cheese is melted and asparagus is
barely tender, 12-15 minutes. Season with pepper. Transfer asparagus to warm
plates. Serve with a cruet of balsamic vinegar, allowing guests to sprinkle
asparagus with vinegar to taste.
Nutrition information per serving:
76 calories, 65% of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 6 mg
cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 138 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
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@ @ @ @ @
Sweet-onion marmalade
1 tablespoon each: unsalted butter, vegetable oil
3 red onions, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick half moons
1/2 cup dry red vermouth or dry red wine
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon each: fresh rosemary, thyme, chopped or 1 1/2 teaspoon each,
dried
This not-too-sweet condiment complements grilled meats, chicken and salmon,
and is terrific as a topping for pizza. It can be prepared up to one week
ahead, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.
>From "The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook," by Meesha Halm.
1. Heat butter and oil over medium heat in a medium, heavy-bottomed,
non-reactive saucepan. Add onions and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally,
about 5 minutes, until softened. Add vermouth, brown sugar, salt and pepper;
heat to a boil. (If using dried herbs, add now.) Reduce heat to medium-low;
cover. Simmer until onions are very tender, about 40 minutes.
2. Add vinegar and rosemary and thyme (if using fresh herbs). Increase heat
to high; cook, uncovered, stirring often, until liquid is reduced to a
glaze, 3-5 minutes. Cool to room temperature before serving.
Nutrition information per 1 tablespoon serving:
19 calories, 37% of calories from fat, 1 g fat, 0.3 g saturated fat, 1 mg
cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 0.1 g protein, 38 mg sodium, 0.2 g fiber
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